Planting and Care Instructions
The future success and beauty of your landscape is dependent upon the proper planting and initial maintenance of your new plants. These guidelines will help your plants make a smooth transition from the nursery environment to the realities of your landscape with minimal stress.
Planning
Soil Preparation
Mulch
Mass Planting
Pocket Planning
Holding Plants Prior to Planting
Specific Instructions
Trees & Large Shrubs
Small & Medium Sized Shrubs
Ground Covers, Annuals & Perennials
Bulbs
Containers
Hanging Baskets
Bare Root Plants
Seeds & Seedlings
Lawns
Sod Soil Preparation
Houseplants
A Word About Safety
Space Planning
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The planning phase of any project can make all the difference in the results. Whether you're planting one plant or a hundred, be sure you've purchased the correct number of plants, have the tools you need, and the soil has been properly and thoroughly prepared. This web site describes the plants' mature height, width and plant spacing. The plant spacing is your guide for how far apart to plant like varieties. For example, a Boxwood shrub may say it should be spaced 3 feet apart. That means that 3 feet would be a good average spacing for a hedgerow or mass planting of Boxwoods. A 15 foot hedge row would need about five plants and a mass planting of Boxwoods would need one plant every 9 square feet (3 feet times 3 feet).
This spacing is flexible, however, depending on your particular use of the plant. Three Boxwoods arranged attractively in the center of a low bed may need more spacing, such as 4 to 5 feet apart, so the shape of each plant can be appreciated. Likewise, you can plant them closer together, such as 18 to 24 inches apart, if you desire a low hedge to fill in quickly.
Soil Preparation
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The importance of good soil preparation cannot be over emphasized. The old advice to plant a $2 plant in a $10 hole is still noteworthy. As the foundation of your landscape, your soil must be capable of providing the food, water, air and structural support your plants will need for years to come. Extra effort at the soil preparation stage is your best investment in the long-term success of your garden. A simple test you can do is the "moist soil ball" test. Pick up a handful of moist soil from your garden and squeeze it into a ball. If it falls apart when you open your hand, it has too much sand or gravel.
If you thump the ball and it still holds in a tight ball, you have a heavy clay soil. Your goal is to be able to thump the soil ball and have it crumble apart, indicating that the soil is composed of various soil particle sizes with organic matter mixed together.
If your soil is too loose or too tight, air, water and nutrients will not move through the soil properly. The solution is the same for both situations: add organic matter. It will bind loose soil and it will loosen tight soils.
Every part of the country has various types of organic matter available either free for the asking or conveniently packaged for resale. Composted leaves, lawn clippings and other "yard waste" make excellent compost. Tree services often give away shredded tree trimmings. Some municipalities collect yard waste then offer finished compost to their residents. Packaged materials are readily available and convenient for use and storage, and offer a clean, uniform composition. Composted cotton burs, pecan shells, pine needles, pine bark, peat moss, manure and other natural products are excellent soil amendments, as long as they are thoroughly composted. If you can still identify what the compost ingredients used to be, it will need to compost more, and, if used as is in your garden, it will do so in your soil. This continued composting action will rob nitrogen from the soil in the process, so either use only well composted materials or add a high nitrogen fertilizer to the soil during the first year.
Mulch
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Mulch offers many benefits to the home gardener:
For best results, add 1-2 inches of mulch under annuals and perennials, and 3-4 inches under trees and shrubs. Keep mulch away from trunks. Replenish annually or more often as needed.
Mass Planting
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Planting a number of plants over a large area is called mass planting. This method is usually used when making a new landscape bed. First, spray the new bed area with glyphosate weed killer to kill established weeds and grass. Follow label instructions, and respray if needed. After clearing the planting area of grass, rocks, stumps and so forth, fork or rototill the area to break up the surface. Cover the area with a 4 to 5 inch layer of organic matter, and then mix it in to a depth of 12 to 15 inches. If your soil is extremely alkaline, this is a good time to incorporate sulfur or other acidifying amendment. Ask your garden center professional or County Extension office for more information.
After your new bed area is prepared, plant your new plants according to the following specific instructions for your type of plant. Be sure to water the actual root area thoroughly for each new plant. This is vital to the success of your landscape.
Pocket Planting
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When planting one or a few plants, such as when planting shrub replacements, pocket planting will work fine. Remove any rocks, old roots or stumps, and dig a generously sized hole for the new plant. Add plenty of compost to the hole and mix it with the existing soil. This hole is now ready for planting. Plant your new plants according to the following specific instructions for your type of plant. Be sure to water the actual root area thoroughly for each new plant. This is vital to the success of your landscape.
Holding Plants Prior To Planting
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It's best not to purchase your plants until you're ready to plant them, but sometimes weather or construction delays are unforeseen. Keep sun-lovers in the sun and shade lovers in the shade, and check for dry soil regularly. Water carefully but thoroughly when the soil is dry, for small containers can dry quickly, especially in warm, windy weather. Provide protection from cold north winds in winter. Bare root or "balled and burlapped" plants should not be allowed to dry out; cover their root areas with compost or mulch to conserve moisture. Then plant them just as soon as the planting area is ready.
Specific Instructions
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These guidelines are helpful for all plants in general, but some types of plants need special treatment. Here are some suggestions on how to get some specific types of plants off to a good start.
Trees & Large Shrubs
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Many trees and large shrubs are available in heavy wooden boxes, metal or plastic tubs, or with large balled and burlapped roots. Proper handling of large plants may require a large dolly and a truck or trailer to properly transport it. You may wish to have your order delivered.
Care must be taken to protect the trunk and root ball from being dropped or damaged so as not to break the root ball. Dig your planting hole the same depth as the root ball of your new tree or large shrub and about half again as wide. For example, a tree ball that is 20 inches deep and 20 inches wide should have planting hole that is 20 inches deep and 30 inches wide. Next, decide how the plant is to face in the hole, remove the container, and then set the tree into the hole carefully one time. If balled and burlapped plants are tied with rope around the trunk, cut the rope, but do not try to remove the burlap. The rope and burlap will quickly disintegrate in the ground. If container grown plants have roots that are circling heavily around the outside of the root ball, make numerous vertical cuts with a sharp knife to encourage new, outward root growth. Check to see that the plant is vertical in the hole, then fill the space around the root ball with a mixture of native soil and a little compost. Water thoroughly and add more soil. Water again. Using some of the leftover soil, make a 3- to 4-inch high ring of soil around the outside of the root ball. Firm the soil so it will hold water, then fill the root ball and watering ring with water. This would be a good time to add a Root Stimulator to encourage your new specimen to become established more quickly. Mix it according to label directions and pour it on the root ball.
Thorough and regular watering can make or break your new planting during this critical first year. Be sure to water the actual root area thoroughly for each new plant. This is vital to the success of your landscape.
Small & Medium Sized Shrubs
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Most shrubs are now grown in plastic nursery containers, making them easy to transport and transplant. Always carry the plant by the container, never by the trunk, which can damage the trunk and the roots. Care must be taken to protect the trunk and root ball from being dropped or damaged so as not to break the root ball. Dig your planting hole no deeper than the root ball of your shrub and at least twice as wide.
For example, a shrub root ball that is 10 inches deep and 10 inches wide should have a planting hole that is 10 inches deep and 20 to 30 inches wide. Next, decide how the plant is to face in the hole, remove the container, and then set it in carefully one time. If your plant has roots that are circling heavily around the outside of the root ball, make numerous vertical cuts with a sharp knife to encourage new, outward root growth. Check to see that the plant is vertical in the hole, then fill the space around the root ball with a mixture of native soil and a little compost. Water thoroughly and add more soil. Tamp the soil lightly to remove air pockets, then water again. This would be a good time to add a Root Stimulator to encourage your new specimen to become established more quickly. Mix it according
to label directions and pour it on the root zone. Be sure to water the actual root area thoroughly for each new plant. This is vital to the success of your landscape.
Ground Covers, Annuals & Perennials
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One of the pleasures of growing annuals, perennials and groundcovers is the availability of small blooming plants and vigorous groundcovers that are ready for the garden. Annuals and perennials in one gallon sizes or larger provide a showy display immediately, but most annuals and many perennials are planted from cell-packs of other small containers. Generally ground covers are mass planted in large areas, usually from small containers ranging from 2 inch to 1 gallon size. After thorough soil preparation, place the plants, still in their containers, in a square or "W" pattern in the planting area. When you're satisfied with the arrangement, start planting, working from a corner out (don't plant yourself into a corner).
Invert each plant so the roots, soil and plant fall out of the pot into your hand. Squeeze the pot or tap the bottom if needed to help stubborn plants come out of their pots. Here's a good way to remove plants from cell-packs: hold one cell in your hand while pushing on the bottom of the cell with the thumb of your other hand. Continue pushing on the bottom of the soft plastic cell until the plant is pushed out.
Pulling on the stem risks destroying the roots, so don't give in to this temptation. Dig a small hole in the prepared soil with a trowel or small shovel, place the plant in the hole, and cover around the roots with soil. Continue this until all plants are planted. If you are planting a large number of plants in hot weather, water in the planted ones periodically. Thoroughly water all of the plants when you finish. This would be a good time to add a Root Stimulator to encourage your new specimen to become established more quickly. Mix it according to label directions and pour it on the planted area. Be sure to water the actual root area thoroughly for each new plant. This is vital to the success of your landscape.
Bulbs
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Dormant bulbs, corms, rhizomes and tubers are easy and convenient to plant. These are all enlarged stem or root storage systems that contain the complete mature plant. By planting them in the dormant season, you can enjoy their mature foliage and flowers in the very next season. Some bulbs are winter hardy and others are tropical, but all can be grown in all parts of the country in some manner or another.
For example, hardy tulips will not generally survive hot southern summers, but will be glorious in southern springs when planted in the fall. Likewise, tropical caladiums will surely be killed in northern winters, but will still provide vibrant color to summer northern gardens when planted in late spring.
If you are planting bulbs for one season of color only, minimal bed preparation is needed, but thorough preparation at least 12 inches deep is required if you expect years of recurrent blooms.
For a "naturalized" look, gently toss the bulbs across your lawn or bed area, and plant them where they land - the irregular spacing will simulate a natural colony of plants. For a more formal appearance, place the bulbs in a crisscross or "W" pattern on the soil. Bulb planters are helpful in digging out a large plug of soil to facilitate bulb planting.
Planting depth and spacing between bulbs will vary by type. Here are some guidelines for some of the most popular bulbs:
Fall Planted / Spring Blooming Bulbs
Spring Planted / Summer Blooming Bulbs
NOTE: If your bulb is not listed here, a general rule of thumb is to plant the bulb at a depth that is three times the width of the bulb. For example, a bulb that is two inches wide should be planted six inches deep. Plant bulbs a little deeper in sandy soil and a little shallower in heavy clay soils. If in doubt, err on the side of deeper. Be sure to water the actual bulb planting area thoroughly for each new
plant. This is vital to the success of your landscape.
Containers
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Decorative containers are fun to use around the patio or pool. A very important consideration in container gardening is drainage. If your container does not have drain holes, you'll need to drill some. Metal or plastic containers can be drilled with a 3/8-inch to 1/2-inch drill bit. Make numerous holes around the bottom of the container. The same holds for terra cotta or ceramic pots but will require a masonry
bit. To encourage drainage and prevent the drain holes from clogging, place fiberglass screen mesh, small lava rocks, or a layer of small pebbles over the drain holes. Then partially fill the container with a premium grade potting soil.
With your plants still in their pots, arrange them on the soil to determine the placement and quantity. Mixed plantings usually work best with larger and taller plants in the center with smaller and lower plants around the outside of the container. Place the largest center plants in the soil and place other plants around them until all are placed. Then add potting soil into the voids between plants. Raise and lower plant depth as needed to insure that all plants are planted at the same depth at which they were grown. Thoroughly water the container
until water comes out of the drain holes. Add soil if needed due to settling, and water again. For large, heavy containers, you may want to place the container where it will reside before watering - it will be much heavier after watering. Be sure to water the actual root area thoroughly for each new plant. This is vital to the success of your landscape.
Sometimes permanent plants will outgrow their containers and must be transplanted into larger containers. Select a container that is sized one or two sizes larger than your current container. For example, if your plant has outgrown a 10-inch diameter container, consider either a 12-inch or 14-inch replacement. Be sure your new container has good drainage, then plant it as described above. If your plant is rootbound, with many large roots circling the root ball, slice the roots vertically
with a sharp knife to encourage new root growth outward into the new soil.
Hanging Baskets
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Hanging baskets include a wide range of container types and sizes. Hanging plastic, metal or terra cotta containers are planted just like non-hanging containers. The notable exception to this group is the wire basket. They are usually lined with sphagnum moss or molded fiber liners that hold the soil. The molded liner is easy to use - just drop it into the wire basket and fill with potting soil. Loose sphagnum moss needs to be soaked in water then laid into the basket to form a moss bowl. Sheets of sphagnum moss, or "sheet moss," can be used to line the basket, also. Always use a top grade of potting soil for hanging baskets, for plants in baskets often endure stress from the drying effects of wind.
Most plastic baskets include a built in saucer, which acts as a water-holding reservoir for the plant. If you are building wire baskets for plants which need lots of water, such as ferns, you can build your own water reservoir into your baskets.
After you lay in the sphagnum moss, place a plastic or terra cotta saucer in the bottom of the basket. Then add soil and plants. The saucer is hidden inside but will retain some extra water for the in-between watering times. Hanging baskets will
dry quickly, especially in warm and windy areas, so check your hanging baskets daily. This is especially important in arid, hot climates.
Bare Root Plants
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Planting dormant, bare root plants is a popular way to transplant many types of plants. Roses are generally sold this way in winter, as are fruit and nut trees, grapevines, Clematis and many other trees, shrubs and perennials. Most packages will contain printed planting instructions, which should be followed carefully.
In general, the planting technique is much the same for them all. After preparing the soil thoroughly, carefully open the plant package and remove the plant. Gently loosen the roots to allow them to take their original shape, as if growing in the ground. Presoaking the roots in Root Stimulator will invigorate the roots and keep them moist before they are planted. Do not soak roots longer than 24 hours. Next, dig a hole twice as wide as the root area of your bare root plant. Form a cone-shaped mound of soil in the center of the hole, and carefully arrange the roots around it. Hold the plant at a depth that is the same as it grew in the nursery, backfill the hole halfway with soil then water. Add more soil to fill the hole and water again. Use some leftover soil to form a soil ring around the planting area to facilitate watering. Fill this water ring with a Root Stimulator and water mixture
according to label directions. Plants without foliage will not need much water, but do not let them dry excessively. Increase watering as spring foliage emerges and temperatures rise. Be sure to water the actual root area thoroughly for each new plant. This is vital to the success of your landscape.
Seeds & Seedlings
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Growing plants from seed offers the gardener a huge selection and is very economical, but it also requires the most time and care. All seed packs include specific instructions, but here are some general guidelines:
points in successful seed growth. Another consideration is the
germinating area. A sunny windowsill will work, or special "grow lights"
will work well also. Since seeds generally need warmth to germinate,
gardeners in colder climates may need to place the seedling containers
on an insulated heating pad made for germinating seeds. This added
warmth will germinate a higher percentage of seeds, which will grow
stronger seedlings. Some light is needed for the germination of most
varieties, and stronger light is required for all varieties as the
seedlings grow. Many healthy seedlings have been ruined by prolonged
growth in poor light, to the extent that they die or produce only weak,
soft-stemmed plants. Where seedlings appear crowded, thinning may be
necessary to make growing room - gently remove a few seedlings to give
the remaining seedlings a little "elbow room." In general, as soon as
the seedlings develop one set of true leaves (not the first "cotyledons"
which emerge from the seed) they are ready to be transplanted into
individual containers or, weather permitting, directly into the garden.
wide container filled with packaged, finely textured potting soil,
preferably one made for seedlings. Level the soil and moisten it
moderately with a spray bottle. Make shallow furrows with a hard edge,
such as the edge of a ruler; space the rows about one inch apart. Sow
the seed into the furrows being careful not to drop too many seeds in
one spot. A good technique for doing this is to fold a small piece of
paper in half, pour a small quantity of seeds onto the paper. Hold the
creased end of the paper over the furrow, then tap the paper gently -
the tapping action will accurately drop a few seeds with each tap. This
is especially useful when planting very fine seed. Larger seeds can be
placed individually if desired.
pots filled with seedling soil mix. This can save the transplanting step
later but will require more space in the germinating area. A good
alternative to plastic pots is to use peat pots or peat pellets, which
are made of compressed peat moss. Both of these should be soaked in
water before use. After the seedlings planted into them are large
enough, the entire pot is planted directly into the garden. Whether
initially planted with seeds or transplanted with seedlings, these
alternatives are a simple, disease free way of getting your seedlings
off to a good start in the garden.
method of all. This is a popular method for many vegetable varieties
which have large seeds, such as squash, peas and beans. Zinnias and
other flowers can be easily grown this way. Check the seed pack for
specific instructions for your varieties. After danger of frost has
passed, well-prepared soil should be leveled and finely raked to remove
excess rocks, sticks or other debris. Place the seeds in rows for small
varieties, such as carrots and radishes, or plant 6 to 8 seeds together
in "hills" or mounds, such as for cucumbers or cantaloupe. Cover the
seed very lightly by raking the soil carefully, then water with a fine
mist. Small seeds may not need to be covered at all - the watering
action will cover them with a thin layer of soil. Keep the soil moist
for the first few weeks until most of the seeds are germinated. Then
water less frequently but more deeply. Thin the seedlings if they appear
crowded. Before the plants get too large, place any support structures
like tomato cages, bean poles or strings for peas.
Lawns
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Repairing or replacing grass in lawns is usually done in one of three ways: seed, plugs, or sod. Here are some guidelines for each of these methods:
Seed:
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Starting or repairing a lawn with seed is the most economical method but takes the longest time to become established. This is a popular method for bentgrass, bermudagrass, and many other types of native and hybrid grasses.
After leveling the soil and checking for proper surface drainage (no puddles or "ponding" in the lawn area) rake the soil to remove rocks or other debris. Use the back side of a large landscape rake or garden rake to make the surface as smooth as possible. Using a whirlybird type seeder, sow the seed evenly over the area according to the package instructions. Sow half of the amount of seed going north and south and the other half going east and west. If possible, save a small amount of seed for "touch up" later. Lightly water the soil but do not cause any runoff. This is best done by hand for the first week or so. Water twice per day for the first two weeks, depending on temperature and rainfall. Time the last watering of the day so that any puddles or wet foliage have dried before sundown. This will reduce losses caused by water-borne fungi. When the seeds are thoroughly sprouted, water somewhat less frequently, but water more deeply.
If bare spots are evident after three to four weeks, touch up the bare areas using your extra seed. Keep the new seeds moist until they are well germinated. After the new seedlings are well on their way and lawn looks shaggy, it's OK to mow. It's important to use a freshly sharpened mower blade so as not to pull out or tear the young blades of grass.
After this first mowing, apply a lawn fertilizer at half rate, then watering and mowing as you normally would. Do not use any herbicides during the first year, including herbicides that are listed as OK for your type of grass. It's best to hand pull any weeds rather than risk losing your new lawn.
Grass Plugs:
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Small lawn repairs can be easily accomplished using grass plugs, which are grown in flats or trays of small pots. This is also an economical way to plant a new lawn. After leveling the soil and checking for proper surface drainage (no puddles or "ponding" in the lawn area) rake the soil to remove rocks or other debris. Use the back side of a large landscape rake or garden rake to make the surface as smooth as
possible. Purchase enough plugs so they will be planted with at least one plug per square foot (12 inches apart or less). At this spacing, plugs planted in spring should fill in solidly by fall. Space out the flats evenly over the planting area, then remove the plants from one flat. Place them evenly over that small area, dig a small hole for each plug then plant them flush with the surface of the soil. Continue this method with several more flats.
In warm weather, stop occasionally to water the plants you've planted, then plant a few more. After planting all of the plugs, water the area very thoroughly. After the new plugs are growing well and the lawn looks shaggy, it's OK to mow. It's
important to use a freshly sharpened mower blade so as not to pull out or tear the young plugs of grass. After this first mowing, apply a lawn fertilizer at half rate, then continue watering and mowing as you normally would. Be sure to water regularly and thoroughly - this is vital to the success of your new lawn.
Sod:
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Installing a solid sod lawn certainly produces the finest lawn most quickly and with the fewest problems along the way. This "instant lawn" method is essentially a transplanting job, moving the sod from a commercial sod farm to your landscape. You can enjoy an established lawn immediately using this method.
Sod Soil Preparation
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Soil preparation is an important step in preparing for solid sod. After leveling the soil and checking for proper surface drainage (no puddles or "ponding" in the lawn area) rake the soil to remove rocks or other debris. Use the back side of a large landscape rake or garden rake to make the surface as smooth as possible. Begin laying the sod block by block with no overlaps or gaps between blocks, starting along a straight edge, such as a sidewalk or drive. When you get to the end of row of sod blocks, overlap the last block onto the bed, walk or drive, and trim it off later with a spade, knife or hatchet. These odd, left over pieces can be used in other odd spots or unimportant areas. After you finish one row, start another, then another. In warm or windy weather, it may be necessary to water the sod lightly during the installation. Keep a rake handy to level spots messed up by your feet, knees or wheelbarrow.
After all of the sod has been laid, water the sod moderately. A rented lawn roller is ideal for putting the finishing touches on your new lawn. Fill the roller with water until it is at least half full, then roll it in a crisscross pattern over the sod. If it doesn't appear to be smoothing the lawn, water more until the sod is a little "squishy." This step will press the sod's soil into firm contact with your soil, assisting with the establishment of your new lawn. It will also help to fill small gaps and create a smooth, level surface. This will also insure a smooth, even trim when you mow the lawn.
Keep the lawn watered daily, depending on weather. It should not be soggy, but should not dry out. When the sod is rooted enough so that you cannot pull it up with your hands, which should be in 10 to 14 days, it's OK to mow and fertilize. Your new lawn should be thoroughly established after six to eight weeks.
Houseplants
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Planting tropical plants indoors is virtually identical to planting hardy plants outdoors with one notable exception. Whether your tropical plants are planted in ground beds in a garden room or in containers in the family room, lightweight soil and good drainage are paramount. Most plants used indoors are native to the tropical climates of the world, where soils are loose, rich and well-drained. Garden soils are, for the most part, unsuitable for indoor plants. So, since the
major cause of houseplant failure is overwatering, it behooves us to start with a premium grade of potting soil that drains well.
Some houseplant potting soils contain horticultural grade charcoal which filters and "sweetens" the water as it passes through the soil. Extra drainage gravel or charcoal in the bottom of the pot also helps the drainage. All of these little extra steps are very helpful during the dreaded winter months when nothing wants to grow and when one overwatering may be way too much.
A Word About Safety
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No-one plans to have an accident, but most "accidents" are preventable. Although gardening is generally a safe and healthy activity, here are a few tips on how to protect yourself and others while tending your garden:
and when to hire professional help.
the rental yard person for safety and operating instructions. Do not
over-ride safety shut-off switches or operate equipment with broken or
missing parts.
not up to the task. You not only get the work done for you safely, but
you usually get a better warranty, also.
long periods.
dangerous heavy work, such as with a chipper, axe or chainsaw use.
than dull ones. Even shovels and spades dig better with lightly
sharpened leading edge.
pesticides or other chemicals.
electric trimmers outdoors, are connected to a grounded outlet,
preferably one with a built in GFI (ground fault interrupter). For older
homes without GFI's outdoors, a qualified electrician can add them.
Consider using GFI's anywhere water and electricity can come together.
